Canada's free retirement savings calculator

Plan your RRSP, TFSA, and FHSA with compound growth projections, block-bootstrap Monte Carlo withdrawal simulations, and real vs. nominal rate analysis — built for Canadian investors.

30-year projection · your numbers
$0
nominal at retirement
$0
real (today's dollars)

Savings accounts portfolio

💡
Quick start: Each tab is one account. Set a fixed rate or edit it year-by-year, and adjust your deposit amount any time — the table updates automatically.

Investments

Portfolio growth
Swipe to see all accounts

Decumulation — Monte Carlo

Will your money last?
Portfolio (real)
$0
×
Withdrawal rate
4.0%
=
Year 1 income iThis amount is pre-tax. An RRSP or non-registered withdrawal is taxable income — your net amount will be lower. A TFSA or FHSA (eligible use) withdrawal is generally tax-free.
$0
4.0%
100% Stocks
0% Bonds
Calculate your accumulation first to run the simulation.
⚠ This calculator does not model the Canada/Quebec Pension Plan (CPP/QPP), Old Age Security (OAS), the Guaranteed Income Supplement (GIS), or the Allowance. A defined-benefit pension can be approximated using the "DB" option on a Pension account. These would add to your retirement income on top of what's shown here.

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🍁 Account types — Canada

RRSP (REER)
Tax deduction on contributions; taxable on withdrawal. Limit: 18% of earned income, max ~$32,490 (2025) — unused room carries forward indefinitely (check your exact limit on the CRA website). You have until the first 60 days of the following year (usually March 1) to contribute and deduct on the prior year's return; you can also contribute without claiming the deduction right away and carry it forward to a higher-income year. A withdrawal is added to your taxable income for the year (with withholding tax at source) and the contribution room is lost permanently — except for the HBP (Home Buyers' Plan) or the LLP (Lifelong Learning Plan). Converts to a RRIF at 71. Best prioritized if you have a high income: the deduction is worth more at a high marginal rate, especially if you expect a lower income in retirement. Quebec's CQFF courbes (formerly the Claude Laferrière curves) are one of the most powerful tax-planning tools in the province for estimating the real impact of an RRSP contribution — the tool bakes in Quebec's tax system, so it's Quebec-specific. For other provinces, TaxTips.ca offers marginal rate tables by province, though without factoring in benefit clawbacks.
TFSA (CELI)
All growth and withdrawals are 100% tax-free. $7,000/yr (2025), a limit indexed to inflation each year and rounded to the nearest $500; unused room has accumulated since 2009 (or since you turned 18) — check your exact limit on the CRA website. You can withdraw anytime without losing your room: the amount withdrawn is added back to your contribution room, but only starting January 1 of the following year. Non-residents of Canada don't accumulate any new TFSA room for years spent entirely abroad — your tax residency status (not just months away) determines this, so check your situation before an extended move. For the vast majority of people, the TFSA should be the last account you draw down: since withdrawals are entirely tax-free and don't raise your taxable income, emptying it first is usually a tax mistake.
FHSA (CELIAPP)
Best of both worlds for first-time buyers: tax deduction on contributions + tax-free withdrawal for a qualifying first home. $8,000/yr, up to $40,000 lifetime in contributions (investment growth adds on top, uncapped) — check your exact limit on the CRA website. Must be used within 15 years of opening: if the account hasn't gone toward a home purchase by then, it must be closed. You can then transfer the funds to your RRSP or RRIF — this transfer never reduces your RRSP room and isn't taxable, regardless of your available RRSP room — or withdraw them directly, in which case the amount becomes taxable income.
RESP (REEE)
Tax-deferred growth for a child's post-secondary education. Government matches 20% via the CESG (up to $500/yr, $7,200 lifetime per child). Withdrawals of growth/grants (EAP) are taxed in the child's hands — usually little to no tax.
Pension
Employer-sponsored plan (DB or DC). Defined-benefit pensions pay a guaranteed income based on salary/years of service; defined-contribution pensions behave like an RRSP — both grow tax-deferred. Contribution limits are set by your plan and the Income Tax Act.
Non-registered
No annual limit. The tax treatment depends on the type of income earned: capital gains are only 50% taxable (inclusion rate), and only when sold; interest (savings accounts, bonds) is fully taxable at your marginal rate, with no preferential treatment; eligible dividends (from large Canadian corporations taxed at the general rate — e.g. banks or TSX large caps) get a favourable dividend tax credit, while foreign dividends don't qualify (though a foreign tax credit may apply). You don't need to optimize which security type sits in which account — for most investors, holding the same ETF (e.g. XEQT) across all accounts is perfectly reasonable, and even recommended for simplicity. Use after maxing out your RRSP and TFSA.

% Nominal vs. real rate

The nominal rate is the raw return your investment earns. The real rate strips out inflation, showing how much your actual purchasing power grows each year.

Both matter: use the nominal rate to compare against benchmarks; use the real rate to understand what your nest egg will actually buy.

Enter your parameters and calculate to see the real rate estimate.

X Return estimates used in this calculator

The default rate of 7.3% nominal (≈ 4.6% real at 2.2% inflation) is based on XEQT, an all-world equity ETF by iShares available on the TSX. Since XEQT has limited history, this estimate draws on long-run global equity data (close to MSCI World historical returns). We use the conservative end of published estimates. Change the rate in any account to use your own assumption.

7.3%
Nominal (est.)
4.6%
Real (~2.2% inf.)
0.20%
MER

Past performance does not guarantee future results. This is the rate used as a prefill in the calculator — not a prediction or financial advice.

🧺 What's an ETF?

An ETF (exchange-traded fund) is a basket of securities — stocks, bonds, or both — that trades on an exchange just like an individual stock, giving you instantly diversified exposure to hundreds or thousands of companies in a single purchase.

Most of the ETFs mentioned on this page (XEQT, VGRO, ZBAL, etc.) are passively managed index ETFs: rather than trying to beat the market, they simply track an index at the lowest possible cost — often under 0.25% per year in management fees (MER), versus 2%+ for a traditional mutual fund.

$ The 70% income replacement rule

Many planners target replacing 70% of pre-retirement income, but this number varies widely. If your mortgage is paid off, your children are independent, and you plan a simpler lifestyle, you may need considerably less. Travel, healthcare, or supporting dependants can push the number higher.

A better approach: list your anticipated retirement expenses directly rather than applying a percentage to your current income. What you need is a spending question, not an income question.

4 The withdrawal rate

The classic "4% rule" (Trinity Study, 1998) says you can withdraw 4% of your portfolio in year one, then adjust for inflation, without running out over 30 years. A starting point, not a guarantee.

Conservative Canadians often use 2.7–3.2%, especially with bonds or longer horizons — a range popularized by PWL Capital's Ben Felix (Rational Reminder), who argues US-based 4% studies overstate safety due to survivorship bias in the data. A practical formula: fund return − inflation − safety buffer.

For another take, Morningstar puts its base-case "safe" rate at 3.9% for 2026 (fixed spending, 90% odds of not running out over 30 years) — and as high as 5.7% for retirees willing to adjust spending with the markets (a "guardrails" approach). The gap between 2.7% and 5.7% shows just how much this number depends on the assumptions used and your own budget flexibility.

Calculate to see your personalized withdrawal estimate.

Risk management: stocks vs. bonds vs. high-interest savings

Stocks offer a higher expected return over the long run, but with more short-term volatility; bonds are more stable, but with a lower expected return. The stock/bond ratio in your portfolio sets your overall risk profile.

The closer you get to retirement — or the more a market drop would rattle you — the more it can make sense to increase your bond allocation to reduce volatility, an approach sometimes called a "bond glide path." Conversely, a long time horizon generally lets you absorb more volatility in exchange for a higher expected return.

Rather than managing and rebalancing several ETFs yourself, asset-allocation ("all-in-one") ETFs combine global stocks and bonds in a single fund at a fixed ratio:

Risk level: higher → lower
XEQT
100% equities
~7.3%/yr
XGRO
80 / 20
~6.6%/yr
XBAL
60 / 40
~6.0%/yr
XCNS
40 / 60
~5.3%/yr
XINC
20 / 80
~4.7%/yr
XBB
100% bonds
~4.0%/yr
CASH
Cash (HISA)
~2.3%/yr
Expected return: higher → lower

XBB (iShares) shows the 100%-bond end of the spectrum: despite their safe-haven reputation, bonds can still lose value when interest rates rise — XBB fell about 11.7% in 2022 without a single bond actually defaulting. CASH.TO (Global X), by contrast, isn't a bond ETF at all — it's a high-interest savings ETF (HISA): it holds high-interest bank deposits, with an essentially stable value and no duration risk, and a yield that floats with prevailing rates — about 2.3%/yr currently, paid monthly. That's why CASH.TO (or an equivalent) is often used for FHSA savings earmarked for a near-term home purchase: unlike bonds, its principal doesn't fluctuate right before you need to withdraw it.

These estimates blend the 7.3% long-run nominal equity assumption used elsewhere on this page with a 4% assumption for bonds — a reasonable historical average, and close to Vanguard's own current forecast for its own funds. Over a shorter horizon, Vanguard's actual 10-year forecast (VCMM model, 2026 outlook) is more conservative: roughly 4.0–5.0% for US equities, 4.9–6.9% for non-US equities, and 3.8–4.8% for US bonds — notably below the historical average given today's valuations. Past performance doesn't guarantee future results.

The research is genuinely split on the right allocation: a study on SSRN (Anarkulova, Cederburg, and O'Doherty) argues an all-equity portfolio has historically outperformed conventional bond-glide-path strategies across nearly every retirement horizon, while Morningstar calculates its "safe" withdrawal rates assuming a more conservative, diversified allocation.

iShares (BlackRock), Vanguard, and BMO all offer a similar lineup (e.g. VEQT/VGRO/VBAL from Vanguard, ZEQT/ZGRO/ZBAL from BMO) — the provider matters less than the stock/bond ratio you choose based on your risk tolerance and time horizon.

Lump sum vs. dollar-cost averaging (DCA)

If you come into a large sum all at once (an inheritance, a bonus, proceeds from selling a property), you're facing a choice: invest it all immediately ("lump sum"), or spread it out in equal installments over several months ("dollar-cost averaging," or DCA) to average your purchase price.

Mathematically, investing it all at once wins most of the time: a Vanguard study covering US, UK, and Australian markets from 1976 to 2022 found that lump sum beat DCA roughly two times out of three (61.6% to 73.7% of the time depending on the market) — simply because markets rise more often than they fall, so sitting in cash while drip-feeding your purchases costs you missed returns on average. When lump sum wins, the gap is real but modest: about 2.2% higher over 3 months for a 100% equity portfolio, somewhat less for a balanced one.

Lump sum beat DCA in roughly 65–70% of the periods studied (Vanguard, 1976–2022).

But the math isn't the whole story. If investing a large sum right before a downturn would push you to panic-sell near the bottom, DCA reduces that regret risk by smoothing your entry price — even though it earns somewhat less on average. Vanguard's own model backs this up: for a genuinely loss-averse investor, spreading purchases out can be the rational choice once the psychological cost is priced in. The best strategy isn't necessarily the one with the highest expected return on paper — it's the one you'll actually stick with without panicking.

This question mainly applies to money you already have in hand today (an inheritance, a bonus, a sale) — if you're investing a portion of each paycheck instead, you're already doing a form of DCA by default. If investing a large amount all at once makes you nervous, spreading it over 3 to 6 months is a common middle ground: you keep most of lump sum's statistical edge while reducing the worst-case emotional scenario.